This season, Milan Fashion Week is far from routine — it feels like a defining moment in fashion history.

The city is alive with the excitement of new creative directors, heartfelt tributes, and a palpable energy that underscores Milan’s pivotal role on the global fashion stage. From Demna’s understated introduction at Gucci to Louise Trotter’s eagerly awaited debut at Bottega Veneta, Spring/Summer 2026 is already shaping up to be unforgettable.

The week kicked off on 23 September with Demna’s unconventional Gucci debut: a short film titled The Tiger, directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, replacing a traditional runway show. The following day, Simone Bellotti revealed his first vision for Jil Sander, stepping in after Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade-long leadership. Later, Dario Vitale presented his daring debut for Versace, and just last night, Louise Trotter unveiled her perspective for Bottega Veneta, establishing herself as one of the few female voices in this year’s major creative reshuffles.

This edition of Milan Fashion Week strikes a balance between honoring the past and embracing innovation. While new creative talent takes the helm at iconic houses, the city also prepares to celebrate Giorgio Armani’s incomparable legacy. S/S 2026 highlights Milan as both a custodian of fashion tradition and a launchpad for reinvention.

Amid the excitement, there’s a poignant note: Armani, who passed away earlier this month at 91, will be remembered with a special closing tribute, honoring a designer whose vision shaped Italian style for decades.

Dolce & Gabbana

Saturday at the Metropol Theatre became a lavish pyjama-themed runway. Guests were treated to a rare spectacle as the cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and newcomer Simone Ashley — appeared in character in the front row, even drawing a rare smile from Anna Wintour.

On the runway, Dolce & Gabbana expanded their “Pyjama Boys” concept to womenswear. Striped sets were studded with oversized crystals, while sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie-inspired pieces added sensuality. Footwear ranged from cozy slippers to sky-high stilettos. Streep’s smirk confirmed the collection’s theatrical flair and fidelity to the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Versace

Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace transformed the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana into the aftermath of an extravagant night: unmade beds, scattered glasses, and ashtrays set the mood.

The collection mirrored this energy: mini dresses with plunging backs hinted at lingerie, oversized tailoring appeared in bold colors, and baroque prints were paired with metallic chainmail-inspired pieces. Rather than replicate Gianni Versace’s archive literally, Vitale captured the founder’s rebellious, glamorous spirit. “It’s about the feeling of Gianni, not just the garments,” he explained backstage. The debut combined daring experimentation with respect for the house’s legacy.

Max Mara

Ian Griffiths looked to Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV’s witty and influential muse, for inspiration. The “Rococo Modern” S/S 2026 collection blended 18th-century extravagance with Max Mara’s contemporary minimalism.

Runway highlights included trench coats with dramatic “corona” sleeves, dresses adorned with floating organza petals, and floral brocades softened by tailored cuts. Hair pulled back with black bands referenced Pompadour’s signature coiffure. The overall effect was elegant, wearable, and commanding — quintessential Max Mara.

Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi’s second season overseeing both men’s and womenswear was filled with energy and optimism. Set against Marc Newson’s colorful block backdrop, the collection evoked a “future summer” where nostalgia meets modern playfulness.

Key pieces included pleated skirts with toggle fastenings, sheer sweatsuits trimmed in shearling, and oversized woven totes in bright primary colors. The iconic “Peekaboo” bag returned with a glittering sequin-lined interior. The collection was eclectic, playful, and luxurious — proof that Fendi can combine whimsy with high fashion.