The Spring 2025 collection in Shanghai showcased Demna’s philosophy that creativity is the ultimate luxury. His visionary designs and market savvy continue to set Balenciaga at the forefront of fashion innovation.
In March of last year, just before his Fall 2024 Balenciaga runway presentation in Paris, Demna conveyed a message that succinctly captured his design ethos. Embedded within his collection notes via a QR code, he asserted, “What truly stands out as rare and boundless in our current landscape is creativity itself. I firmly believe that creativity has quietly morphed into a novel manifestation of luxury.” This declaration epitomizes Demna’s perspective on luxury, portraying it as a realm of personal expression rather than a rigidly structured, extravagant domain—a viewpoint that has propelled his tenure at Balenciaga over the past nine years.
In recent months, Demna has been reaffirming his fundamental principles through his fashion collections. Commencing in October 2023, he has presented a succession of shows showcasing his signature motifs: a rebellious, thought-provoking demeanor and distinctive padded silhouettes. Nevertheless, Demna remains in a state of continual evolution. His most recent Spring 2025 runway exhibition (technically Resort 2025), staged yesterday in Shanghai, serves as a testament to his dynamic nature. Despite Balenciaga boasting more retail outlets in China than in any other location, this event marked the brand’s debut showcase in the country—a project that has been years in development.
Unveiled on a rainy night at the imposing Museum of Art Pudong, the Shanghai collection showcased Demna’s intellectually curious exploration of Balenciaga’s house codes and his twisted take on classic glamour. Demna’s affinity for reality shows was evident, as the collection seemed fit for the cast of Netflix’s *Bling Empire*, whether in L.A. or on the streets of Shanghai. The runway featured hourglass skirts, billowy pussy-bow blouses paired with slinky open-toe heels and white tube socks, and ripped-fabric pantaboots. Cropped and bulky trenches, along with cocooning faux-fur coats, exuded an “I’m expensive” vibe, paired with an aura of nonchalance. True to Demna’s style, elements of tackiness were rendered sharp through perfect tailoring and distinct lines.
Men’s fashion was prominently featured, alongside the reveal of a new collaboration between Balenciaga and Under Armour. The viral pièce de résistance was the triple-layer brick-size flatform boot, inspired by Shanghai’s towering skyscrapers, set to become a must-have for Demna’s most dedicated followers.
The couture looks that closed the show were particularly magical, especially those crafted from upcycled materials. The pink gown that concluded the event was made from decade-old plastic bags, hand-cut into strips and fastened with wire to mimic feathers. A sleeveless draped dress was fashioned from gold-foil gift packaging, while two other pieces utilized Tyvek paper and collected travel bags. Another standout was the “black velvet jewelry display dress,” exactly as described, catering to those who appreciate luxury with a side of eccentricity.
Demna’s affection for Shanghai and his customer base there was palpable, and this show was the result of years of meticulous planning. However, despite his elevated creative vision, Demna remains a pragmatist. The luxury market in Asia continues to expand, and staging a high-profile show in China is a savvy business move. Demna excels at balancing creative integrity with commercial viability, a quality that makes him an exceptional artistic director and visionary. Whether in Shanghai or elsewhere, he designs clothes that provoke thought and evoke emotion—qualities that transcend monetary value.
Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 collection in Shanghai was more than a fashion show; it was a narrative woven with threads of creativity, luxury, and cultural dialogue. Demna’s ability to blend avant-garde aesthetics with a deep understanding of market dynamics ensures that Balenciaga remains at the forefront of fashion innovation. This show not only celebrated the brand’s heritage but also underscored its relevance in today’s fast-paced, ever-evolving fashion landscape.
Demna’s latest collection for Balenciaga was a brilliant showcase of his philosophy that creativity is the ultimate luxury. By combining bold, thought-provoking designs with a keen sense of market strategy, he continues to push the boundaries of fashion. The Shanghai show was a testament to his visionary approach, highlighting that true luxury lies in the ability to innovate and inspire, making us think and feel in ways that transcend the material.
