With its Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection, The Call of the Void, Schiaparelli once again reaffirmed its ability to elevate couture into a form of artistic storytelling that transcends traditional fashion.

 Under the creative leadership of Daniel Roseberry, the maison unveiled a collection centered on intuition, uncertainty, and the creative potential that emerges when established rules are set aside.

The collection followed the success of Roseberry’s previous couture offering, The Agony and the Ecstasy. Reflecting on that achievement, the designer acknowledged that he briefly believed he had uncovered a formula for success. Yet his attempt to reproduce that same result ultimately revealed the opposite lesson: creativity cannot thrive through repetition or predictability. Instead, it requires experimentation, courage, and an openness to the unfamiliar.

This realization became the conceptual starting point for The Call of the Void, inspired by the French phrase l’appel du vide — the mysterious impulse that draws us toward uncertainty rather than safety. The idea feels particularly relevant to Schiaparelli, a house whose identity has long been rooted in surrealism, spontaneity, and a fascination with the unexpected.

Roseberry translated this philosophy into a collection that reconsidered conventional notions of couture luxury. Rather than relying exclusively on heritage fabrics such as silk, satin, and wool, Schiaparelli embraced unconventional materials including silicone, latex, and heat-treated paint, transforming them into sculptural expressions of craftsmanship and innovation.

Among the collection’s most striking creations was an extraordinarily realistic silicone corset rendered in a soft milky blue shade and paired with a voluminous skirt embellished with hundreds of flowers crafted from stretched hosiery, pearls, and wire. Existing somewhere between fashion and sculpture, the look perfectly embodied the surrealist DNA that has defined the house for decades.

Elsewhere, natural flowers, fish scales, and fluid latex embellishments appeared throughout the collection, creating silhouettes that felt as though they had emerged from an imagined underwater world. These unusual details introduced movement and transformation, reinforcing the collection’s fascination with discovery and the unknown.

The color palette drew heavily from marine landscapes and the natural environment, blending lobster pink, vivid violet, luminous orange, and pale mint green with glossy black surfaces and raw ecru tones. Gold, one of Schiaparelli’s enduring visual signatures, remained a defining feature, appearing in sculptural embellishments that highlighted the house’s distinctive approach to ornamentation.

Roseberry also revisited several of Schiaparelli’s iconic design codes. The signature jacket was reimagined through elaborate embroidery and intricate detailing, transforming a classic tailoring piece into an architectural statement with theatrical presence.

Accessories further expanded the collection’s surreal narrative. New interpretations of the Secret bag incorporated floral embroidery and crinoline-inspired structures, while the Bubble shoe was updated with futuristic silicone finishes. Jewelry inspired by seashells, sea anemones, and octopus tentacles continued the dialogue between imagination and nature that ran throughout the collection.

More than a display of technical craftsmanship, The Call of the Void serves as a meditation on creativity itself. Roseberry explores the delicate balance between instinct and control, suggesting that innovation often emerges when certainty is replaced by curiosity and experimentation.

Perhaps the collection’s most significant accomplishment lies in its reinterpretation of luxury. Silicone and latex are employed not as provocative gimmicks but as sophisticated materials capable of expressing artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation in entirely new ways.

Some designs may feel closer to contemporary sculpture than conventional fashion, yet this tension has always been central to Schiaparelli’s identity. The house has never sought to conform to expectations; instead, it has consistently challenged and redefined them.

With The Call of the Void, Daniel Roseberry delivers a collection that is both visually arresting and intellectually ambitious, reaffirming haute couture’s enduring ability to inspire, surprise, and expand the limits of creative expression.