Daniel Roseberry pushes boundaries with a collection that fuses theatricality, sensuality, and craftsmanship.

Paris’s Centre Pompidou became a stage for magic as the lights dimmed and anticipation filled the room. Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s visionary creative director, presented the Spring/Summer 2026 collection titled “Dancer in the Dark”, a runway experience that blurred the lines between fashion, art, and performance. The show was not just a display of garments; it was a meditation on contrasts, exploring the tension between concealment and revelation, rigidity and fluidity, power and vulnerability.

Since taking the helm at Schiaparelli, Roseberry has transformed the historic house into a laboratory of contemporary surrealism. Rather than simply echoing Elsa Schiaparelli’s playful eccentricity, he channels her spirit to create clothes that live and breathe, turning the runway into a choreography of emotion and movement. In this collection, each look seemed to oscillate between intimacy and spectacle, as if the clothes themselves were alive.

The collection opened with a strikingly simple yet mesmerizing black gown, traced with white, chalk-like lines that moved with the model’s body, creating the illusion of a living sketch.

Throughout the show, contrasts defined the narrative: crumpled blouses suggested fragility yet revealed meticulous internal structures, while gold paintbrushes draped over tailored ensembles symbolized the labor of creativity. Roseberry’s signature whimsy appeared in lacquered eggshell hats and surreal golden accessories, paying homage to the house’s storied heritage.

Movement was central to the presentation. Alex Consani floated down the runway in whisper-thin black fabric, a delicate gold line tracing her spine, appearing almost ethereal. Moments later, Kendall Jenner commanded attention in a daring ensemble of lace and black ponyhair, a bold study in sensuality that maintained elegance and restraint. Through these juxtapositions, Roseberry demonstrated his mastery of balancing audacity with sophistication.

Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Despite the show’s title, “Dancer in the Dark” was a luminous experience. Metallic threads caught the light, golden details shimmered, and sheer fabrics refracted subtle glows, creating a sense of ethereal movement. Roseberry’s interpretation of transparency went beyond mere exposure; it became a tool to convey emotion, intention, and complexity. In his hands, the women of Schiaparelli are empowered—every gesture deliberate, every step a statement of presence and allure.

Celebrity appearances were woven seamlessly into the narrative. Kendall Jenner’s confident performance reinforced the collection’s modern sensuality, while Kylie Jenner and Rosalía observed from the front row, blending contemporary pop culture with the house’s surreal legacy. Yet the collection’s emotional depth remained the centerpiece, highlighted by a gown that appeared to peel away, revealing gold beneath—a metaphor for transformation, imperfection, and the beauty of evolution.

Even in ready-to-wear, Roseberry’s precision rivals couture. Every pleat, seam, and embellishment serves a purpose, yet garments retain movement and vitality. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection thrived on dualities: structure versus fluidity, restraint versus extravagance, intellect versus instinct. These contrasts transform clothing into dialogue, where each piece interacts with the wearer and communicates its own story.

Nearly a century after Elsa Schiaparelli redefined fashion with surrealism, Roseberry continues her vision, blending her iconic whimsy with contemporary daring. “Dancer in the Dark” is both an homage and a reinvention, proving that the house’s legacy of innovation is alive and evolving.

As the final model exited and applause filled the hall, it was evident that Roseberry’s darkness is not concealment—it is revelation. Each silhouette, shimmer, and texture reflected a world where imperfection, tension, and duality create true beauty. With this collection, Schiaparelli proves that surrealism, elegance, and modernity are inseparable, and that under Roseberry’s guidance, the house remains at the forefront of imagination and artistry.